Raining:
So finally it rained here last Friday night. I woke up Saturday, to cold and dampness with wet clothes on the line. Ah reminded me of home - it was only 18 degrees and I was freezing!!! Out came the socks and long tops. But it is just a blip back to normal weather again now. In fact the weather here is supposed to be lovely and warm right up until late October.
But it was funny experiencing rain again – was a bit perturbed. No sure what do with myself – until I copped myself on and went for a walk in the drizzle. In all fairness have grown up with constant rain – 3 months of sun can’t change that!!
Language:
Well my ‘Tajik’ is improving. Yesterday there was a conversation here at work and at the end of it I burst out laughing. Actually understood the gist of it – just picked up a few words but enough to get the joke. They guys were amazed – guess they are now worried about how much I actually understand? When they are on a roll (and they speak very fast here) I generally understand nothing!!
Russian – Most of my work is actually in Russian. At this stage I can recognise the key words as I am looking at them daily. Can’t actually say them but can read them. It’s funny I work at times using the Russian version of Microsoft. Its gas years of working in computers have meant I can navigate based on instinct and not necessarily knowing what the words mean.
Sporting Life in Khujand:
So the evenings are cooling down and I can now actually contemplate playing tennis. So off I went down to the sports arena here. I met the couple that run the place and they told me I can play anytime I want free of charge. Got myself a cheap racquet and tennis balls and off I go to play!! And heard the nice new pool will actually open mid- September. It has Jacuzzi x 3 and spa treatment area - the works. There are specific ‘woman only days’ and mixed days to cater to all.
However Khujand is a surprisingly modern city – with reasonably relaxed attitudes. They have a different approach to other places I have visited. There is a real sense of small entrepreneurship and the people are keen to move on from their history. My friend was telling me that I would not recognised Khujand as it has changed so much in 3 years. From, simple things like increased traffic, to more restaurants and shops.
Rounders: The kids were fascinated with the tennis racquet, so I decided to teach them how to play rounders. Oh dear difficult enough with no language barrier but very hard when there is. There were about 25 kids, different ages and god, fights and tantrums. I spent most of my time roaring Nay (no) at them. But you know they picked it up pretty quick. I hope to buy some toys for them when I’m leaving - some footballs and outdoor stuff for them to use next summer.
Football in Khujand:
Went to my first soccer game here Khujand V Dushanbe. Now Dushanbe’s captain is the President’s son so they have oh a ‘slight advantage’. But standard of football pretty crap to be honest maybe division 4/5. And it did feel odd been in a stadium with approx. 1,000 blokes and 4 woman. Not the most comfortable of evenings but an experience none the less!!!
Movies:
So I watched the ‘Hurt Locker’ the other night. Wow what a great film can see why it won the Oscar – a very realistic portrayal. I think the entire Republican party in the US should watch it!! I had a German friend over and insisted we watched the ‘Commitments’ as he had never seen it. Oh lads was crying laughing – haven’t seen it in so long – bloody brilliant!!!
Ramadan:
I have felt so sorry for my boss who was doing Ramadan. Some days she looked in rag order like she was going to collapse. The other day she gave in and had some water and food. God what a transformation she was like a new person. I get the reasons behind Ramadan – but perhaps not if you’re making yourself ill. I told her not to worry between her Muhammad and my God we had all bases covered.
So she gets some salad for lunch and we all tucked in. So was eating all happy cos I noticed mushrooms in the salad (very difficult to get mushrooms here). When decided I should just check they were in fact mushrooms. Omg q major laughing – my mushrooms was in fact cow tongue. Oh I said a quick prayer to God thanking him for his timely intervention.
National Holiday:
Well Ramadan was over Tuesday/Wednesday so it was a ‘national holiday’ here on the Wednesday. Happy days no work!! It is a really big celebration here after 40 days of Ramadan. Families and extended families get together and eat ‘osh’. Our neighbours dropped in Osh for myself and Jeff which is very nice. But I can really only stomach Osh maybe once every two weeks. What puts me off it is that they make it will a huge amount of well basically lard – and plonk some on top for you to eat. So another neighbour last night dropped in Osh – oh I couldn’t look at it – had the auld classic peanut butter sambo.
This is my neighbour making osh – in the typical Tajik cookware. So deep within the rice there are huge chunks of meat and lard. Of course the problem we had was how to throw out the leftover Osh. We are the only foreigners in this area and they have folks that go through the bins. And well it is just not done to throw out bread and Osh. So it was with military planning that I put the leftover Osh and bread in a bag. Put that in another bag and brought it into town to dump.
The best till last:
So I have got to know my neighbours really well. And last Sunday Naziba had a beautiful baby girl, Muslima. Of course right up until she went into hospital she was cooking, cleaning and doing all the laundry (hand washing) all while heavily pregnant. She is back home and well this is her life now and taking care of a new baby. As is custom here she and Muslima cannot leave the house for 40 days. This is an old tradition to protect the baby and give the Mother time to recuperate. God love her she is dying to go out as the weather is nice now but stuck indoors for another 30 days. After 40 days her Mother will host a party for family and relatives to welcome Baby Muslima.
Baby Muslima Helena:
So we were chatting and she told me the baby’s name would be Muslima Helena. So it took me a few seconds to realise the middle name is after me. Everyone here calls me by the French pronunciation – Helena. Oh wow was so touched it is such a lovely honour. I know I will probably never see these lovely folks again. And would I love to be a fly on the wall when they explain to Muslima how she came about having such a non – Tajik second name!!
As you can see in this picture the baby is wrapped up very tightly. They do this for one month I’ve been told to prevent the baby scratching themselves and generally moving around. After one month the baby sleeps in a special cradle with a hole. The baby arms and leg are tied and a little tube is attached to them so they can basically pee via the hole.
This is the norm here and surrounding countries and the woman will tell you that is it is a good practice. The thinking is that the baby will not move as much and demand attention so to give their Mother time to cook, clean and do laundry. Also with limited electricity and water it reduces washing baby clothes. Nappies are expensive here you see people buying 2 or three. And then they are recycled and hung out to dry. I do struggle sometimes to understand some of the local customs and practices here – but have to say I think this is unusual to say the least. But as I keep saying to myself who am I a blow in for six months to judge customs that has been carried on here for hundreds of years!
Hope all is well.
As always from me to y’all good night!!!
Lainey xxx
PS: In Dushanbe they just opened the world’s largest flagpole (Guinness record book) at a cost of over $3million. Go figure???
PPS: Am trying to find out where I can go to watch the Ireland v Russia game. KO 4pm here so good timing and I will try to round up some honorary ‘Irish’ friends to watch with me!!
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