Well when I first arrived in T – I met four fellow VSO volunteers. All of us are living in different locations here in T. We promised to visit each other before leaving. So this week I had Jan from the Pamir region visiting me here in K. Together we travelled to Penjikent to visit another VSO volunteer.

Penjikent is situated in the north west of T, about 5 hours by car from Khujand. It’s a lovely town close to Uzbekistan – and again I thought the locals here look so different to the locals in K.

Car Trip

Getting there is an experience. You travel by shared taxi. You go to a designated spot in K and basically haggle for a car and then wait until there are four passengers.

Of course I was told to get an older drive, no stuff on the roof and check the tyres. All good but of course I have no idea about the quality of the engine and if it would last the journey.

I was stuck in the back with two local women and of course BO was an issue. Which is tough when you are travelling on dusty roads (see picture below).  I literally spent 2hrs frantically putting the window up/down whenever I could. Even though it’s October it was a very hot day and well the smell was at times overpowering.

What is Penjikent known for?

Sarazm – Beginning of the World

This is one the oldest known settlement in Central Asia, over 5000 years old. And well I love archaeology and just loved this place. Fortunately at the time there was a French team of archaeologists on site. God it was so interesting talking to them. The team leader has worked on and off for nearly 20 years on this site. I could have spent hours talking to him – such an interesting man with an incredible passion for this area.

He explained and outlined to us the site and its history – it is considered to be the cradle of civilization of Tajik people. I was literally blown away it’s hard to capture on camera as well it looks like a bunch of stones. But trust me folks this is a designated UNICEF World Heritage site for a reason.

Ancient Penjikent

Is located above P with great views and was a well organised city up until the 8^th century. When the auld Arabs came along and burnt and buried it.  You can make out the foundations of the original temples and bazaar.   

Town Mayor's House

When in P we stayed with a friend who lives in the former Town Mayor's house. This house for me actually sums up T. There was a massive bathroom with Jacuzzi, Sauna and a very fancy toilet. Folks not one of them worked. There was however a very posh out door toilet!!

Creepy Crawlies:

So I have survived the summer and all the peculiar insects I was even bitten last night by mosquitos.  Its 16/11/11 but the weather is still lovely and warm which would explain it. But now have to cope with huge fecking spiders. Found 3 in the last week but thankfully someone has been around to do the necessary. They are massive things and well you know me and my insect allergy. It’s a little ‘oh Jesus Christ’ and a few other choice words and then someone comes to my rescue.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: Well I just found out I am apparently not a ‘native English speaker’. Jeff had some documents to proof read and said he would get me to do them. But he was told to get someone else as Elaine is ‘not a native English speaker’. God I was killed laughing. I promptly explained that while I am Irish, English is my native language.

PPS: Just had to include this picture. When in P in came across a recently married young lady. She wears this dress every day for a month after the marriage.  It’s a traditional Uzbekistan dress – Penjkent and that region are populated by a lot of Uzbekistan’s and they have retained a lot of their traditions.

It took me ages to coax a smile out of her – but think it’s a great picture!!

Dinner in Khujand........

So as I have written about the many wonderful opportunities I have had to eat with locals in their home and experience the ‘real Tajikistan’.

But this picture below is typical of how a traditional Tajik table is laid out for dinner.  The only problem I have is that after a while (well to be honest 5 minutes) I’m shifting around trying to get comfortable. It’s a culture thing I’m just not used to sitting at ground level eating food. But I’ve posted these pictures enjoy!!

So this this is the table laid out………………

This is golupsi – yummy stuffed peppers with rice and mincemeat but they use a very particular spice which is unique to Central Asia – Zera. It takes a bit of getting used to but I actually like it.

Another Tajik speciality Mantu – Dumplings stuffed with rice and mincemeat. So folks are you getting the theme here? Rice and meat here is to us like spuds and bacon. To the left is Shambosa a pastry filled with meat and onion. The amount of meat used indicates the relative wealth of the household.

Living with Jeff:

Ah lads he is great. We are like the proverbial married couple – checking in for when your home and who is cooking. We have a system whoever cooks doesn’t clean.  Honestly he is a fantastic cook and well frankly I just love Indonesian food. He suffers from high cholesterol which doesn’t surprise me – the food has loads of oil, sugar and salt. Oh mental point = I must take a test when back home.

So we decided to take up the carpets and mop the floors. Unfortunately the local shops didn’t have a mop – so I asked the locals what they use. They use a wooden T – shaped instrument with a rag. So Jeff volunteered to do the honours – I opted out due to my bad back. (See picture below).

Anyways next day I spent over an hour hunting but finally found a shop where I could buy a mop. I mean seriously hand mopping floors in this day and age – I don’t think so. Of course carrying the mop home caused great consternation with the locals. Again I am  talking about a mop here folks not some space age tool. They were so curious – even more so when I explained that Jeff had already cleaned the floors. In the neck of the woods blokes just do not clean – it is strictly a woman’s job.

We even have a toilet system all I will say is thank god for the warning sounds of toilet freshener. To be fair out flat is so small – two bedrooms, one kitchen and that’s pretty much it. But were lucky we get on great and he is a star!!

Wedding Season

Yep now that Ramadan is over the wedding season is in full swing. Every day I go to the park and most times there is at least 3 or 4 couples there getting pictures taken.. Looking at them I don’t know whether to laugh or cry.

The girl in her $500 hired dress (like something from my big fat Gypsy Wedding). As for the groom in his shiny hired suit well he always looks like he’d love to run. Unfortunately you can’t actually see the girl’s face as she avoids eye contact as a sign of respect. Now I am no expert in body language but trust me the girls are generally acting very nervous. For both of them this is probably maybe the 2^nd time they have seen each other, particularly with an arranged marriage.

No honeymoons here folks you spend the night and well the rest of your life in your in-laws house.

The other night I was out with two Tajik friends and they were explaining to me what was going on at the next table.

There was a young couple, their Mothers and a ‘facilitator type person’. At this stage the wedding had been approved my both families and there were there to meet. After a while the ladies walked away and the young couple had about 5 minutes together. They exchanged phone numbers (only at this stage can they do this). And usually the guy asks the girl does she have another boyfriend and will she love him. The answer regardless of circumstances is always NO and YES!!.

However have to say the vast majority of people I know here are happily married. Maybe there is something to arranged marriages???

Rat Season:

Oh god it is rat season here. The first few times I saw the little bastards on the street I screamed and was jumping around. Particularly when you notice there are oh about 4 (I was screaming so much I lost count) literally a few yards from your feet.

Now getting as used to it as I ever be. E.g. this morning I saw one on the street right beside a stall. Well while I don’t scream anymore, I do a sort of a yelp and shudder – whilst trying to maintain my composure. Because as far as the locals are concerned it is no big deal!!

 Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: Well I have never really understood why locals stare so much at foreigners – I mean it’s now like we are Aliens. So I saw two tourists the other day and I just found myself staring at them. It’s the first time I’ve seen tourists here. And then I had a ‘eureka’ moment it dawned on me I was staring because well frankly they just looked odd and different. So now I finally understand the whole staring business.

A bit embarrassed to say I actually followed them for a bit – was curious to know where they hell they were from. Not sure but think Germany!!

Independence Day

Independence Day:

Yes last week Tajikistan celebrated 20 years of independence from Russia. My god it was such a big deal everyone was talking about it and best of all 3 days holiday.

Parade:

All the locals were talking about this so with great curiosity I strolled into town to check it out. So well first impressions were that it was very Russian like – which was somewhat ironic given the nature of the celebration. Also there wasn’t as many people actually watching the parade as I expected (reasons for this became apparent later).

As a foreigner I managed to get right up to the front opposite the viewing stand.

So picture the scene a very very hot day and hundreds and hundreds of soldiers marching. We had loud booming pre – recorded music and hundreds of local people walking in front of the viewing stand. (This was why there were so few watching most of the town were walking in the parade).

But to be fair there were some diversions:

1) We had balloons in the national colours

2) What I thought were doves initially then fake birds as they didn’t seem to fly very well. But well when one literally fell from the sky close to me I realised they were horrible pigeons. The poor things must have been suffering heat exhaustion stuck in cages all morning.

3) Every so often there was the excitement of a float. For example a truck with a teacher, two desks, pupils and two cardboard computers

4)  Occasionally groups would stop in front of the viewing stand and sing a song in praise of the President

5) Numerous huge pictures of the President all in the same pose mind you

So yep so the theme was all about the President. It was one huge love fest about him and well frankly incredibly boring. So I sneaked off after 1 hour – the parade lasted 3 hours. From one college alone 1,000 students marched. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Concert:

That night there was a big concert in the local stadium with 25,000 people. So there was no actual system for getting in but as usual as a foreigner I was allowed up the front and managed to make it in.

I was meeting friends but had lost them. My friends found me and when I asked how they managed that – they told me they had asked the Police did they see a foreign girl!! I guess been the only foreigner at the concert was a good thing.

So again we had loud booming pre-recorded music and the whole thing was another fawning homage to the President. Another theme here folks – it’s all about the President here. Actually what struck me was when all the Government people took their seats was that they were all men and hugely overweight compared to locals. (read into that what you may)!!

But it was great fun – a really colourful spectacle of dance and music from the Sughd regions. Of course I couldn’t sit down and stood up to dance (love the music here) much to the amusement of the crowd around me and the numerous police in front of me. I couldn’t understand why no one was dancing. Eventually a few people towards the end started dancing. I’m afraid I have no pictures just videos and internet not good enough to upload one.

Lenin Statue:

So I had heard about this Lenin statue which was removed from a prime location before I arrived. It is the largest in Central Asia. So off I went Saturday to try and find it. Had to laugh folks – the poor fella is now located well in what I would call wasteland. Had to laugh a pretty miserable place for it – but guess Tajikistan is trying to remove the more obvious reminders of its Russian history. It is just unfortunate that the more subtle ones are still alive + kicking.

School/College time again:

Yep the kids are all back in school. So, on a daily basis Khujand look like its hosting a convention for waiters/waitresses. All the school girls wear black skirts with a white shirt and a massive white fluffy bow. The boys well from a distance it looks like there are wearing leather trousers but it’s a throwback to the early ‘80/s folk’s just shiny trousers with white shirt and tie.

Its gas the college kids look nothing like home. The guy’s wears black trousers and white shirt + tie. The girls all dress very formally, black skirt and white shirt…………yes another theme here they luv their black/white.

Labour has my vote.

The US sponsor an ‘American Corner’’ here in Khujand.  It is for the students to give them an understand of American culture via books dvd’s etc.

So………I emailed Eamonn Gilmore asking would the Irish government be interested in providing books. My point was that while Ireland has no direct relationship with this country, Tajikistan has very powerful allies – China, Russia and America all of whom we have national relationships with.

So fair play they agreed to donate 50 books. It’s a fantastic collection of books – popular, contemporary, poetry, history, and culture. I am so proud to think that in this little part of the world there will now exist an ‘Irish Corner’ and Tajik students will learn about Irish culture.

Tennis:

I am playing tennis here now on courts about a 15 min walk from the flat. It’s great really enjoying it – I haven’t played in so long and struggling with fitness. But have to laugh here have absolutely no sense of tennis ‘etiquette’ here. They stroll around on court, use their mobiles and have wonderful loud conversations.

Earlier today I actually had to say sssh to someone – she was wrecking my head. Then the guy I was playing with kept on saying ‘good’ whenever I hit the damn ball. So very politely asked him to stop!! The locals are like camels – playing on Sunday I drank 2.5 litres of water – the guy I was playing with didn’t touch a drop!!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: I copped this ages ago but forgot to mention but I appear to be the only person in Khujand who actually dries their underwear outside. Fortunately I am at the back so only a few of my neighbours are exposed to my high quality d/s underwear ha ha!!

PPS: Have a new translator – driving me nuts. Not sure how long he will last but am desperate so may just be stuck with him – bad BO and all!!

School/College is out:

Yep the kids are all back in school. So, on a daily basis Khujand look like its hosting a convention for waiters/waitresses. All the school girls wear black skirts with a white shirt and a massive white fluffy bow. The boys well from a distance it looks like there are wearing leather trousers but it’s a throwback to the early ‘80/s folk’s just shiny trousers with white shirt and tie.

Its gas the college kids look nothing like home. The guy’s wears black trousers and white shirt + tie. The girls all dress very formally, black skirt and white shirt…………yes another theme here they luv their black/white.

Labour has my vote.

The US sponsor an ‘American Corner’’ here in Khujand.  It is for the students to give them an understand of American culture via books dvd’s etc.

So………I emailed Eamonn Gilmore asking would the Irish government be interested in providing books. My point was that while Ireland has no direct relationship with this country, Tajikistan has very powerful allies – China, Russia and America all of whom we have national relationships with.

So fair play they agreed to donate 50 books. It’s a fantastic collection of books – popular, contemporary, poetry, history, and culture. I am so proud to think that in this little part of the world there will now exist an ‘Irish Corner’ and Tajik students will learn about Irish culture.

Tennis:

I am playing tennis here now on courts about a 15 min walk from the flat. It’s great really enjoying it – I haven’t played in so long and struggling with fitness. But have to laugh here have absolutely no sense of tennis ‘etiquette’ here. They stroll around on court, use their mobiles and have wonderful loud conversations.

Earlier today I actually had to say sssh to someone – she was wrecking my head. Then the guy I was playing with kept on saying ‘good’ whenever I hit the damn ball. So very politely asked him to stop!! The locals are like camels – playing on Sunday I drank 2.5 litres of water – the guy I was playing with didn’t touch a drop!!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: I copped this ages ago but forgot to mention but I appear to be the only person in Khujand who actually dries their underwear outside. Fortunately I am at the back so only a few of my neighbours are exposed to my high quality d/s underwear ha ha!!

PPS: Have a new translator – driving me nuts. Not sure how long he will last but am desperate so may just be stuck with him – bad BO and all!!

Rain and a little new life!!!

Raining:

So finally it rained here last Friday night. I woke up Saturday, to cold and dampness with wet clothes on the line. Ah reminded me of home - it was only 18 degrees and I was freezing!!! Out came the socks and long tops. But it is just a blip back to normal weather again now. In fact the weather here is supposed to be lovely and warm right up until late October.

But it was funny experiencing rain again – was a bit perturbed. No sure what do with myself – until I copped myself on and went for a walk in the drizzle. In all fairness have grown up with constant rain – 3 months of sun can’t change that!!

Language:

Well my ‘Tajik’ is improving. Yesterday there was a conversation here at work and at the end of it I burst out laughing. Actually understood the gist of it – just picked up a few words but enough to get the joke. They guys were amazed – guess they are now worried about how much I actually understand? When they are on a roll (and they speak very fast here) I generally understand nothing!!

Russian – Most of my work is actually in Russian. At this stage I can recognise the key words as I am looking at them daily. Can’t actually say them but can read them. It’s funny I work at times using the Russian version of Microsoft. Its gas years of working in computers have meant I can navigate based on instinct and not necessarily knowing what the words mean.

Sporting Life in Khujand:

So the evenings are cooling down and I can now actually contemplate playing tennis. So off I went down to the sports arena here. I met the couple that run the place and they told me I can play anytime I want free of charge. Got myself a cheap racquet and tennis balls and off I go to play!! And heard the nice new pool will actually open mid- September. It has Jacuzzi x 3 and spa treatment area - the works. There are specific ‘woman only days’ and mixed days to cater to all.

However Khujand is a surprisingly modern city – with reasonably relaxed attitudes. They have a different approach to other places I have visited. There is a real sense of small entrepreneurship and the people are keen to move on from their history. My friend was telling me that I would not recognised Khujand as it has changed so much in 3 years. From, simple things like increased traffic, to more restaurants and shops.

Rounders: The kids were fascinated with the tennis racquet, so I decided to teach them how to play rounders. Oh dear difficult enough with no language barrier but very hard when there is. There were about 25 kids, different ages and god, fights and tantrums. I spent most of my time roaring Nay (no) at them. But you know they picked it up pretty quick. I hope to buy some toys for them when I’m leaving - some footballs and outdoor stuff for them to use next summer.

Football in Khujand:

Went to my first soccer game here Khujand V Dushanbe. Now Dushanbe’s captain is the President’s son so they have oh a ‘slight advantage’. But standard of football pretty crap to be honest maybe division 4/5. And it did feel odd been in a stadium with approx. 1,000 blokes and 4 woman. Not the most comfortable of evenings but an experience none the less!!!

Movies:

So I watched the ‘Hurt Locker’ the other night. Wow what a great film can see why it won the Oscar – a very realistic portrayal. I think the entire Republican party in the US should watch it!! I had a German friend over and insisted we watched the ‘Commitments’ as he had never seen it. Oh lads was crying laughing – haven’t seen it in so long – bloody brilliant!!!

Ramadan:

I have felt so sorry for my boss who was doing Ramadan. Some days she looked in rag order like she was going to collapse. The other day she gave in and had some water and food. God what a transformation she was like a new person. I get the reasons behind Ramadan – but perhaps not if you’re making yourself ill. I told her not to worry between her Muhammad and my God we had all bases covered.

So she gets some salad for lunch and we all tucked in. So was eating all happy cos I noticed mushrooms in the salad (very difficult to get mushrooms here). When decided I should just check they were in fact mushrooms. Omg q major laughing – my mushrooms was in fact cow tongue. Oh I said a quick prayer to God thanking him for his timely intervention.

National Holiday:

Well Ramadan was over Tuesday/Wednesday so it was a ‘national holiday’ here on the Wednesday. Happy days no work!!  It is a really big celebration here after 40 days of Ramadan. Families and extended families get together and eat ‘osh’. Our neighbours dropped in Osh for myself and Jeff which is very nice. But I can really only stomach Osh maybe once every two weeks. What puts me off it is that they make it will a huge amount of well basically lard – and plonk some on top for you to eat. So another neighbour last night dropped in Osh – oh I couldn’t look at it – had the auld classic peanut butter sambo.

This is my neighbour making osh – in the typical Tajik cookware. So deep within the rice there are huge chunks of meat and lard. Of course the problem we had was how to throw out the leftover Osh. We are the only foreigners in this area and they have folks that go through the bins. And well it is just not done to throw out bread and Osh. So it was with military planning that I put the leftover Osh and bread in a bag. Put that in another bag and brought it into town to dump.

The best till last:

So I have got to know my neighbours really well. And last Sunday Naziba had a beautiful baby girl,   Muslima. Of course right up until she went into hospital she was cooking, cleaning and doing all the laundry (hand washing) all while heavily pregnant. She is back home and well this is her life now and taking care of a new baby. As is custom here she and Muslima cannot leave the house for 40 days. This is an old tradition to protect the baby and give the Mother time to recuperate. God love her she is dying to go out as the weather is nice now but stuck indoors for another 30 days. After 40 days her Mother will host a party for family and relatives to welcome Baby Muslima.

Baby Muslima Helena:

So we were chatting and she told me the baby’s name would be Muslima Helena. So it took me a few seconds to realise the middle name is after me. Everyone here calls me by the French pronunciation – Helena. Oh wow was so touched it is such a lovely honour.  I know I will probably never see these lovely folks again. And would I love to be a fly on the wall when they explain to Muslima how she came about having such a non – Tajik second name!!

As you can see in this picture the baby is wrapped up very tightly. They do this for one month I’ve been told to prevent the baby scratching themselves and generally moving around. After one month the baby sleeps in a special cradle with a hole. The baby arms and leg are tied and a little tube is attached to them so they can basically pee via the hole.

This is the norm here and surrounding countries and the woman will tell you that is it is a good practice. The thinking is that the baby will not move as much and demand attention so to give their Mother time to cook, clean and do laundry. Also with limited electricity and water it reduces washing baby clothes. Nappies are expensive here you see people buying 2 or three. And then they are recycled and hung out to dry. I do struggle sometimes to understand some of the local customs and practices here – but have to say I think this is unusual to say the least. But as I keep saying to myself who am I a blow in for six months to judge customs that has been carried on here for hundreds of years!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: In Dushanbe they just opened the world’s largest flagpole (Guinness record book) at a cost of over $3million. Go figure???

PPS: Am trying to find out where I can go to watch the Ireland v Russia game. KO 4pm here so good timing and I will try to round up some honorary ‘Irish’ friends to watch with me!!

Khujand - A tourist's delight!!!

Khujand – in Pictures:

I had visitors all week so took the opportunity to take some snaps of Khujand. I haven’t actually done the tourist thing here since arriving, so it was a nice opportunity to see the city differently.

Pictures below enjoy:


The local mosque one of the largest in this region - this picture taken from the market. 

Ah I luv it - Pasjambe the infamous local market. Taken from the outside its a crazy vibrant hub of activity. Would make tesco in Finglas look soooo tame!!! They wouldn't last a day here.

A local favourite - the tea house. Probably equivalent to the 'pub' sat outside here on a tapcham for a couple of lovely cold beers. Oh yeah the locals actually drink tea here, its just the foreign yobs who drink beer!!

Well there has to be some payback for living with the heat and here you have it Karakum. The local 'tajik sea' so nice to have a dip in this heat. PS hope not making y'all jealous!!!!

Students – Discussion Group

These are some of students I meet with weekly. I love meeting up with them this week we had discussion about Irish/Tajik music. I’m organising table tennis with them on Thursday with mixed teams which should be good fun. And next week to do something different I have asked them to take me on a tour of Khujand – local style.

Invitations to Ireland:

Oops gone a bit mad with these. So far in no particular order I have invites out to: China, USA, Holland, UK, Tajikistan, Nepal, Germany, Canada, Finland, Norway, Italy, Urkraine, Russia, Austria, Israel, Indonesia and the Philippines. Of course am hoping some are of the reciprocal nature and not all turn up in Dublin at the same time. Otherwise might be calling on friends to offer accommodation and possibly having to resort to serious diplomacy!!

Seasonal Food:

It’s great here the market sells the most incredible locally grown foods. No crap all naturally grown and my god are they amazing. Tomatoes like you wouldn’t believe – so juicy and tasty. You can literally eat them on their own – sort of like a really good Irish spud. Incredible grapes, small no pips that they dry out and use for raisins. Not forgetting aubergines cucumbers and melons to die for. 

The other side off the coin is when the season is over it’s over. Come winter its spuds, eggs, and that’s pretty much it. This explains why the locals are right busy bottling tomatoes, aubergines and cucumbers for the long winter here.

Just re-read this sounds like something from ‘Little house on the Prairie’ - young readers check out re-runs always on some channel somewhere!!

Oh my lovely neighbour dropped in grapes grown literally outside my window – mmmm yummy!!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: Just realised it is 3 months since I arrived in T. I got an email from a volunteer arriving in September. God felt so knowledgeable about T – it’s amazing how much you pick up. Ahhhhh guess time is going fast!!


PPS; I do not work for the Tajikistan/Khujand tourist board!!

Hot in the city tonight oh yeah..................

Top 10 Reasons you know it’s hot hot hot!!!

10: The locals are complaining about the heat…………even heard talk of climate change

  9: Wet clothes are dry within 20 minutes of hanging out

  8: My bottle of frozen water is fully defrosted within 15 minutes of leaving flat

  7: You are dreaming of clouds and rain (seriously true)

  6: Not been bitten by mosquitos (does extreme heat maybe kill ‘em don’t know??)

  5: Cooking is major hassle – its peanut butter sambos!!

  4: You are spending more money on water etc than food

  3: You sleep on damp sheets with wet hair but still wake up kicking off non- existent duvet cover

  2: The toilet seat in flat is hot – very uncomfortable. Although could work in winter???

  1: It is 47 feckin degrees @ 4pm!!!!

Yep this week just gone was the worst yet. I have never experienced like it - unbearable. By 11a.m. I was faded – although this normally happens in Dublin so not sure if that is actually heat related!! But this week huge improvement it is only about 30 degrees which is positively tolerable!!!

Funny Photos:

My friend took this one of the bear. It is true taken on a bus in Dushanbe. The man takes him into the centre as a ‘tourist attraction’. He is apparently looking for new owner as he wants to retire. Personally if I was on that bus would have got straight off. I don’t care how ‘tame’ the bear is at the end of the day it’s a wild animal.

Jeff took this picture in a village near here. I think it’s great – especially the woman getting into the front. Of course I was dying to know how the hell they actually got the cow into the car. But it is not unusual here you see all sorts of animals in cars.

The funniest story I heard was a friend coming back down off the mountains and the shared taxi didn’t show. So they clamoured into a jeep with locals – all 11 people and a goat!!!

Brillant only in T.

President in Town:

Yep the main man was in town this week. Bit of pain really as all roads blocked off so had to walk in/out of town. Loads of security and fuss – which is grand until you remember he is President of T not USA!! On the plus side the roads he used now have lovely markings and lines and new tarmacadam.  He also opened a new huge swimming pool. Was all excited until it was explained to me; that the President opening something does not actually mean it is ready to use. I shall wait and see, hopefully before I go home!!!

He opened a park with a statute of King Somoni (see picture below). He was an old King from Persian times and revered here.  There is a bit of a story around me actually taking the damn picture – but probably not suitable for this blog……….

Friends Visiting From Penjikent:

Yeah have a friend coming down early in week for a few nights to visit me. Penjikent is a small town about 5/6 hours from here on crappy roads. It was announced that they will have no electricity for 3 days – hence the visit. Another friend is coming down over the w/end. It will be nice to show them Khujand and hopefully visit the beach!! To be fair Khujand is a big step up from Penjikent -   very limited food supplies etc with a sum total of 3 foreigners living there.

Local University – English conversations:

So I go one/twice a week to the local university to hold ‘chats’ with the the students. We usually pick a topic in advance and discuss. It is great for me and it helps me understand T and for them they get to learn lovely Irish English. They are so interested in Ireland – as they haven’t had someone from Ireland before. We have so far covered Irish Sports, History, and Culture. There are great – so eager to learn and help me. For example tonight I mentioned that I had to go to the market and that I like the local ice cream (yummy). So end of class was offered a lift to market and then a guy calls me to say that he has arranged for me to visit the ice cream factory. And I can eat all the ice cream I want – yeah ‘Lainey & the Ice Cream Factory’ happy days. Must remember to starve myself in advance!! But it’s just an indication of really how genuine these people are, they cannot do enough to help you!!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

Working in Khujand................................

So I hear people are curious to know what exactly I doing here in Khujand well………...

I just signed off a 4 hrs ‘Disability Awareness Training’ programme and waiting to get government approval. Now I am meeting with various banks and other business here in Khujand to organise some seminars. As I explained to the people I meet at this stage it’s not about securing jobs for people with disabilities (PWD). The systems/environment are just not in place yet – but it is about raising awareness.  I am trying to get these important people to understand that PWD can work and contribute to society. This is a challenge as it does contradict the old ‘soviet’ way of thinking. But I am confident from what I have seen/heard that people are willing to listen and learn!!!

I just met the boss of one of the local banks this morning. The great thing here is that people are willing to meet with you and give you a chance to explain yourself. So this guy was great offered me a training room and anything else I needed along with some great local knowledge of other business contacts etc. At the end of the meeting we were chatting so turns out he knows Ireland well. The first branch of this bank was opened by an Irish guy in Dushanbe.

This is my boss Sabohat (above on left Nosa my translator on right)– she had me over to her house Sat night for an ‘epic’ 4 hour Tajik dinner. She wanted to wait until her son came back from Russia as he speaks English and she speaks none. Now the communication difficulties can be frustrating at times especially when your translator is away and your dependant on Google translates. (For the record not great). However having said that the positive thing that is that conversations/meetings tend to be direct and to the point. Now this is something I can appreciate – one avoids the endless marathon sometimes meandering blah blah blah meetings that occur without language barriers. (PS – this is a general comment and not directed at person(s) in particular ha ha!!).

But she is a wonderful dynamic passionate woman determined to make a difference for the children with disabilities here in T. Over the years I know this has caused some difficulties with her and officialdom but she just keeps going. I have so much admiration for her – she set up Rangikamon (rainbow) 10 years ago as a local NGO and it is still going strong.  I hear all the time about people like Sabohat trying to fight the system and make a difference. And you know they are in small ways. But if wasn’t for people like her and others I wonder what would happen here, Ireland and elsewhere??

My Translator:

Ah she is my eyes, ears and voice and brilliant. Her name is Nosa, she is 21 and speaks excellent English. She is in fact so good and so used to me now that most of the time I forget to slow down. But we are now great friends you really develop such a good bond with your translator because you are completely dependent on them. She is leaving in September for a yearlong scholarship in a university in Prague. I’m so happy for her but will miss her terribly – I just hope I can find a great replacement. Also trying to arrange for her to visit me in Dublin so hopefully some of you will get to meet her in person next year!!

Luv this photo - kettle in office balancing very precariously on two paper holders!! (I generally stand beside it when its on). As is typical here in T there are loads of electrical sockets trouble is few if any actually work!!

Marshrutka (aka Mini Bus)

Ah lads I don’t think I will ever forget the joys of travelling to work in a Marshrutka. The journey time is only about 10 minutes but honestly every week I have a different experience. They basically stop everywhere and you just wave to get their attention. Cost about 15 cents and my god they are crazy drivers. They are all competing for your business and come roaring along, screeching to a stop to try and get you on. Of course when they are full I just wave them on which causes great consternation. I still haven’t quite managed the art of climbing in/out with bags etc – it’s never particular graceful shall we say.

They tend to motor long around 25 mph but then over the bridge which is a nice decent road they pick up to maybe 45. Always at this stage my heart is in my mouth. In my view it’s a single road but here it seems to be two lanes. And at times there is literally a few inches between the Marshrukas as they zoom along.

I always get a seat because A) I’m a woman and B) Foreigner and I usually always find someone to talk to. If you get on loaded with bags people with take them off you and hold them for you. Likewise this woman got on carrying twins and just handed me one to hold. I tell you they are great crack - you normally pay a little kid who open/closes the door. And this is done wordlessly you just tap someone on the shoulder and they pass the money along. Oh and yes as is normal here no seat belts!!

Mosquitos

Oh god the bane of my life. I have tried everything. Vitamin E tablets, spray, cream, and plug in stuff to absolutely no avail. Some nights are okay just a few bites and then other nights I wake up. I’m telling you right now your average junkie in Abbey Street would have nice looking legs then mine. Let’s just say after counting 30 bites on one leg – I gave up. The little feckers just luv me – Jeff my roommate not one bite!!! Why oh why???

Alternative Sleeping Patterns:

Ah yes well I have for some reason developed my own personal alternative sleeping pattern. For example; one night I will wake up or not sleep at all  – and cranky all day. The next night cos I’m so tired I’ll sleep for about 5 hours!! I set my alarm religiously every night but not sure why I bother sun rises here so early I actually have never needed the alarm. Ah well roll on the cooler weather in October.

Ramadan:

Yep, just kicked off today 1/8/11. Essentially you cannot eat/drink between approx. 3am and 8pm for the whole month of August. Young, old and sick are excused but for everyone else this is norm. I honestly do not know how they do it especially no water in this heat. My friends tell me the first 10 days are torture but after that it gets better. Me I think I would probably last 10 minutes. You can’t even have a shower, anything that provides relief for a person breaks Ramadan.

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night and I hope you enjoyed the long w/end.

Lainey xxx

Ps: Great just got a weather warning email the weather is supposed to get extremely hot between 2 – 6^th August. Yeah just what I need more heat!!

PPS: As I upload this it's 4.12 am...........been awake all night can't sleep between heat and mosquitos ahhhhh!!