A fond farewell...............................

So folks it a fond farewell to Tajikistan and Khujand……..

Something’s I am going to have to adjust to not doing in Dublin!!

Saying/doing the following daily:

Ashalom (with hand over heart) – Hello

Spasibo/Rathmat - thank’s in Russian/Tajik

Nah – Dah – Yes/No in a very exaggerated way (it’s how the locals do it!!)

Myla – ok

Chand/Skol’ko – how much in Tajik/Russian

What I won’t really miss!!

Electricity

Ah the bane of my life here. We were warned in advance about dodgy sockets. So…………..

Had one in my bedroom making odd noises and there were sparks when I unplugged anything.  Now admittedly I’m no electrician but was concerned enough to send an email that I was worried the damn flat would go on fire.

So the landlord arrives doesn’t turn of the mains and proceeds to well not sure exactly what he was doing. But am positive it contravened all the ‘how to be a safe electrician’ guides.  But fair play to him he fixed it.

The electricity goes frequently in our flat and luckily I have Jeff or the neighbours to well fix it. But this one night on my own as I was settling down to watch a flick it goes. No Jeff or neighbours.

So I opened the panel and in the space of a few seconds the following thoughts raced through my mind;

1). Dear God please do not let me die of an electric shock on my own in K.

2) Will my insurance cover this – sneaky bastards with their small print.

3) I really really want to watch my flick!!

So it was with immense intrepedation I turned some knob and the electricity was back on!!

Water:

For a country that supplies vast amounts of water to Central Asia they aren’t great at managing their water supplies internally. The local water is lethal for foreigners. A friend had told me it was tested and surprise surprise it is very contaminated and full of parasites.

But it’s in the food as well. I have avoided been very sick but have managed to be ill on a few occasions due to:

Water Melon – absorbs a lot of water when growing

Potato – ate the skin one night and both us were sick the next day

Eating Salad

Drinking compot – a local drink made from berries.

Want I won’t miss is:

·       Not been able to use water from taps for basic cooking.

·       Remembering to brush my teeth in filtered water.

·       My poor hair and skin are ruined from the damn water

·       Washing my clothes in funny looking water

The result of this is that I will be leaving a lot of my clothes behind!!

Toilets:

Oh dear I could write a book about the toilets here. But suffice to say I am looking forward to not having to:

·       Remember to carry toilet paper and wipes everywhere.

·       Walk outside for 10 mins to use a toilet whilst @ work

·       Roll up trousers every time I pee (public toilets)

·       Having a toilet in my flat that I don’t regularly (daily) have to fix

·       Feeling like gagging when using the facilities in some locations

·       Avoiding using the local ‘tajik paper’ it is like sand paper most uncomfortable!!

·       Having to use disgusting tap water in a bottle to  A) Flush toilet, B) Wash hands

Things particular to Khujand!!

Random Approaches by Strangers:

Yep a frequent occurrence and the conversation normally goes like this…………

Hello my name is xxxxx. I speak English can I be your friend what is your number. Where do you live can I meet you tomorrow? In fact was just approached by someone earlier in the Supermarket. They mean well but you have to be firm. Otherwise you will spend all your free time with these ‘new friends’.

Staring:

I have gotten used to this to the point when friends were down recently and I was proudly explaining, how really now folks used to me here. They pointed out while walking into town the amount of people staring. Personally I feel it was probably down to the fact that there was a group of 3 foreigners.

Stranger in Town:

In a rather somewhat egocentric way I will kinda miss this. It is nice going places and everyone rushing to help you or been able to get into places. I have had a taste I guess of what life is like for ‘famous people’ ha ha!!

The reality is that there are few foreigners in K. Especially if you travel out of town. They are so proud of their locality and want to show it to the foreigner and make a fuss etc.

Mobile Phones:

Ah the Tajiks are so funny. They don’t seem to understand that you actually do not need to:

A)  Put the phone on speaker

B)  Scream into it whilst holding it in front of your mouth

I noticed myself doing this recently but I like to think that this is down to the fact that my phone is very old!!

Matshucka/Bus:

I am used now to the fact that here men automatically will get up to give you a seat. And no it is not an age thing more cultural. The other day I had to stand and was disgusted that this man did not give me his seat. I tried the glaring technique to no avail. My only conclusion was that he must have been Russian!!

Shopping:

Staff constantly hovering around you!! By now they know me to the point where I don’t have to put my bags in a locker. But they still hover around me all the time.

When they don’t have small change they give you chewing gum/sweets.  I once saw a local person give me a sweet in lieu of change. I was roaring laughing, fair enough!!

Trying to conduct business in private

Yeap the Tajik’s have little or no sense of boundaries. It happens all the time.

When I’m @ bank, ATM, Mobile Phone shop – people will crowd around you stop what they are doing and just listen/look. Usually I’m okay with it however I did lose the rag one day with a guy literally looking over my shoulder. I asked him please to move and give me some space. (all done via sign language and little Tajik).

Spitting in the Street

Oh dear it is such a cultural thing here. Men spit constantly. Driving the open the door and spit out it. I have wondered why they don’t just use the window. I was told they spit due to problems with their kidneys. Can’t quite figure out the connection mind you!!

But it’s not just a little ‘oh something in my throat’. It’s a massive effort seemingly to spit as much as you can. I have narrowly avoided it landing on me. It’s so bad that even on the stairwell in the flat block you have to avoid it!!

Top Ten Items I brought with me!!

1.  Headlight

2.  Lap Top

3.  USB Port

4.  ATM Card

5.  Bug spray

6.  Sun Cream

7.  Movies

8.  I-Touch   

9.  Fleece Jacket

10.Hiking Boots

Top Ten List for things to appreciate in Dublin!!

1.  Water 24/7

2.  Electricity 24/7

3.  Toilets

4.  Oven

5.  Microwave

6.  Food – availability off!!

7.  Nice bottle of red wine

8.  Car

9.  Laser Card

10.Understanding what is been said 24/7

PS: Didn’t include my family + friends cos so obvious!!

So that’s if folks. I hope over the past while I hope I have been able to give you a hint of the culture and life here in Tajikistan. To think that this time last year I had never even heard of this country. What an amazing journey for me!!

Treasured memories, incredible experiences, new friendships and a wonderful six months.

As always from me to you goodnight!!!

See you all back in Dublin.

Lainey xx

PS: The one thing I will take back with me is shoes off  when you go into a house.  I had no idea how much crap you carry around on your shoes. My new rule for visitors to chez moi – shoes off!!

A few of the expats here have started a Sunday Pot Luck Brunch. It’s a great idea someone hosts and cooks a main dish, and everyone else brings along a dish. Gotten very used to this now and will miss when in Dublin. But maybe I can re-create???

This picture captures some of the crew – there were some camera shy folks. The champagne is not normal just a bottle someone had left over!!

Weather Changing:

It suddenly at the end of October got cold here – and well it gave me a small hint of what the real winter would be like.

This picture below is one of the heaters in the flat. I refuse to use it on grounds of personal H&S. Mind you if it was cold enough I am sure I would change my mind.

On the plus side:

·       No mosquitos/flies

·       No fruit flies and other particular insects crash landing into your food. (I dread to think how many bugs I have inadvertently managed to consume in the last while).

·       Ah its cool at night

However for all my moaning about the heat I have to say I would prefer the heat over the cold. Particularly here with limited electricity and water during the winter – I suspect I would struggle to cope!!!

Cooking Outdoors:

Challenging now that’s its dark in the evenings. I wear my little head light!!

Favourite Pictures: 

Yep taken a few while here see below for my personal favourites!!

Walking home from work one day and managed to capture beautiful picture. Sunset over Khujand bridge.

Chilling in the park when I saw these kids. Of course the little girl started to bawl when she saw me. But when she realised I wasn't some particular monster/alien her Mum and I managed to persuade  her to pose. So funny they are exactly mimicking how the adults do it. Here at weddings you don't smile for pictures - its considered a very serious occasion!!

Another Interesting Fruit

So I’ve been told the story about ‘fruits from heaven’. The fruits are: Pomegranate, Figs and Persimmon. They say they are from heaven well frankly because there are delicious!! Even better they are all grown locally here. Of course there is limited use of pesticides etc here which is why the fruit + veg here are amazing.

This picture below is the Persimmon. Oh it’s so good folks – sweet and tasty. Locals say there is chocolate inside. Honestly addicted to them. Have never tasted anything like it!!

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: My Tajik friends are been so kind to me in presenting me with lovely gifts to take home. Between their gifts and my own stuff am worried will be overweight on the return leg!!!

Tick tock...................................

Dinner for our Tajik friends

Jeff and I had about 20 Tajik friends over on Sunday for a buffet type dinner. We played it safe and served; chicken, rice, salads, bread and fruit. We have both learned from experience the Tajik’s do not have a varied diet and well don’t really like food that is somewhat different. But we both wanted to say thanks to wonderful friends for their kindness and friendship over the last few months. 

Of course the buffet style did cause huge amount of laughter. I had to explain the concept.  It was explained to us that here it would be considered very rude to serve food here buffet style. However when you live in a 2 bed flat one has to be creative!!  I also pointed out that when I go to their houses I don’t laugh at how they serve their food. Suffice to say this shut them up ha ha!!

Konibordum

Myself and Dr. Tom another vso person here took a trip with two locals friends to this town. It is about one hour from K. Of course we didn’t realise we had to eat two meals within the space of 30 mins. Now you don’t want to cause offence but God its tough trying to eat when you are absolutely stuffed!!

But again and I know I always talk about this, but their kindness was literally overwhelming. To put in context folks we were the first foreigners to visit their homes and they just desperately wanted to show us a good time. At times it nearly verged on the embarrassing – but you just have to take it on the chin and smile.

I’ve included this photo below – this is my friend Dil’s family. Her father asked could he wave at the camera.  He had never met a foreign person before and wanted to say hello and good wishes to all my family and friends in Ireland. Honestly the best people!!

Interesting Fruit 

So I found this fruit in the market and well, have no idea what it is called. Locals were not able to translate it for me. It’s a cross between an apple, peach and pear with a hint of citrus. Really yummy especially especially when cooked.

Work

Well on the countdown now. In the middle of doing up final training materials and guides, and of course an overall report. I have a clear plan of what I think/hope, should/can happen going forward but fingers crossed. However I plan to keep in touch and have someone here on the ground to keep me posted too!!

New Volunteers

Yeah a new bunch have arrived all three of them. We now think there are about 15 foreigners here. It’s a mixed bunch – some stick to themselves but for the most part were all in this together and meet up when possible. Usually Friday night – enjoyable for the most part but there is only so much political talk I can handle!!

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: Winter has arrived here. Up until a few days ago it was lovely and warm and the suddenly BAM!! There is now snow on the mountains. Unfortunately I have few winter clothes with me but it’s only a few weeks thank God!!

PPS: Had to include this picture. Was walking home from work the other night. And I guess this was one of those 'kodak' moments only I was using my I-Touch. It is the view over the main bridge here in K - probably one of my favourite pictures!!

Well when I first arrived in T – I met four fellow VSO volunteers. All of us are living in different locations here in T. We promised to visit each other before leaving. So this week I had Jan from the Pamir region visiting me here in K. Together we travelled to Penjikent to visit another VSO volunteer.

Penjikent is situated in the north west of T, about 5 hours by car from Khujand. It’s a lovely town close to Uzbekistan – and again I thought the locals here look so different to the locals in K.

Car Trip

Getting there is an experience. You travel by shared taxi. You go to a designated spot in K and basically haggle for a car and then wait until there are four passengers.

Of course I was told to get an older drive, no stuff on the roof and check the tyres. All good but of course I have no idea about the quality of the engine and if it would last the journey.

I was stuck in the back with two local women and of course BO was an issue. Which is tough when you are travelling on dusty roads (see picture below).  I literally spent 2hrs frantically putting the window up/down whenever I could. Even though it’s October it was a very hot day and well the smell was at times overpowering.

What is Penjikent known for?

Sarazm – Beginning of the World

This is one the oldest known settlement in Central Asia, over 5000 years old. And well I love archaeology and just loved this place. Fortunately at the time there was a French team of archaeologists on site. God it was so interesting talking to them. The team leader has worked on and off for nearly 20 years on this site. I could have spent hours talking to him – such an interesting man with an incredible passion for this area.

He explained and outlined to us the site and its history – it is considered to be the cradle of civilization of Tajik people. I was literally blown away it’s hard to capture on camera as well it looks like a bunch of stones. But trust me folks this is a designated UNICEF World Heritage site for a reason.

Ancient Penjikent

Is located above P with great views and was a well organised city up until the 8^th century. When the auld Arabs came along and burnt and buried it.  You can make out the foundations of the original temples and bazaar.   

Town Mayor's House

When in P we stayed with a friend who lives in the former Town Mayor's house. This house for me actually sums up T. There was a massive bathroom with Jacuzzi, Sauna and a very fancy toilet. Folks not one of them worked. There was however a very posh out door toilet!!

Creepy Crawlies:

So I have survived the summer and all the peculiar insects I was even bitten last night by mosquitos.  Its 16/11/11 but the weather is still lovely and warm which would explain it. But now have to cope with huge fecking spiders. Found 3 in the last week but thankfully someone has been around to do the necessary. They are massive things and well you know me and my insect allergy. It’s a little ‘oh Jesus Christ’ and a few other choice words and then someone comes to my rescue.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: Well I just found out I am apparently not a ‘native English speaker’. Jeff had some documents to proof read and said he would get me to do them. But he was told to get someone else as Elaine is ‘not a native English speaker’. God I was killed laughing. I promptly explained that while I am Irish, English is my native language.

PPS: Just had to include this picture. When in P in came across a recently married young lady. She wears this dress every day for a month after the marriage.  It’s a traditional Uzbekistan dress – Penjkent and that region are populated by a lot of Uzbekistan’s and they have retained a lot of their traditions.

It took me ages to coax a smile out of her – but think it’s a great picture!!

Dinner in Khujand........

So as I have written about the many wonderful opportunities I have had to eat with locals in their home and experience the ‘real Tajikistan’.

But this picture below is typical of how a traditional Tajik table is laid out for dinner.  The only problem I have is that after a while (well to be honest 5 minutes) I’m shifting around trying to get comfortable. It’s a culture thing I’m just not used to sitting at ground level eating food. But I’ve posted these pictures enjoy!!

So this this is the table laid out………………

This is golupsi – yummy stuffed peppers with rice and mincemeat but they use a very particular spice which is unique to Central Asia – Zera. It takes a bit of getting used to but I actually like it.

Another Tajik speciality Mantu – Dumplings stuffed with rice and mincemeat. So folks are you getting the theme here? Rice and meat here is to us like spuds and bacon. To the left is Shambosa a pastry filled with meat and onion. The amount of meat used indicates the relative wealth of the household.

Living with Jeff:

Ah lads he is great. We are like the proverbial married couple – checking in for when your home and who is cooking. We have a system whoever cooks doesn’t clean.  Honestly he is a fantastic cook and well frankly I just love Indonesian food. He suffers from high cholesterol which doesn’t surprise me – the food has loads of oil, sugar and salt. Oh mental point = I must take a test when back home.

So we decided to take up the carpets and mop the floors. Unfortunately the local shops didn’t have a mop – so I asked the locals what they use. They use a wooden T – shaped instrument with a rag. So Jeff volunteered to do the honours – I opted out due to my bad back. (See picture below).

Anyways next day I spent over an hour hunting but finally found a shop where I could buy a mop. I mean seriously hand mopping floors in this day and age – I don’t think so. Of course carrying the mop home caused great consternation with the locals. Again I am  talking about a mop here folks not some space age tool. They were so curious – even more so when I explained that Jeff had already cleaned the floors. In the neck of the woods blokes just do not clean – it is strictly a woman’s job.

We even have a toilet system all I will say is thank god for the warning sounds of toilet freshener. To be fair out flat is so small – two bedrooms, one kitchen and that’s pretty much it. But were lucky we get on great and he is a star!!

Wedding Season

Yep now that Ramadan is over the wedding season is in full swing. Every day I go to the park and most times there is at least 3 or 4 couples there getting pictures taken.. Looking at them I don’t know whether to laugh or cry.

The girl in her $500 hired dress (like something from my big fat Gypsy Wedding). As for the groom in his shiny hired suit well he always looks like he’d love to run. Unfortunately you can’t actually see the girl’s face as she avoids eye contact as a sign of respect. Now I am no expert in body language but trust me the girls are generally acting very nervous. For both of them this is probably maybe the 2^nd time they have seen each other, particularly with an arranged marriage.

No honeymoons here folks you spend the night and well the rest of your life in your in-laws house.

The other night I was out with two Tajik friends and they were explaining to me what was going on at the next table.

There was a young couple, their Mothers and a ‘facilitator type person’. At this stage the wedding had been approved my both families and there were there to meet. After a while the ladies walked away and the young couple had about 5 minutes together. They exchanged phone numbers (only at this stage can they do this). And usually the guy asks the girl does she have another boyfriend and will she love him. The answer regardless of circumstances is always NO and YES!!.

However have to say the vast majority of people I know here are happily married. Maybe there is something to arranged marriages???

Rat Season:

Oh god it is rat season here. The first few times I saw the little bastards on the street I screamed and was jumping around. Particularly when you notice there are oh about 4 (I was screaming so much I lost count) literally a few yards from your feet.

Now getting as used to it as I ever be. E.g. this morning I saw one on the street right beside a stall. Well while I don’t scream anymore, I do a sort of a yelp and shudder – whilst trying to maintain my composure. Because as far as the locals are concerned it is no big deal!!

 Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: Well I have never really understood why locals stare so much at foreigners – I mean it’s now like we are Aliens. So I saw two tourists the other day and I just found myself staring at them. It’s the first time I’ve seen tourists here. And then I had a ‘eureka’ moment it dawned on me I was staring because well frankly they just looked odd and different. So now I finally understand the whole staring business.

A bit embarrassed to say I actually followed them for a bit – was curious to know where they hell they were from. Not sure but think Germany!!

Independence Day

Independence Day:

Yes last week Tajikistan celebrated 20 years of independence from Russia. My god it was such a big deal everyone was talking about it and best of all 3 days holiday.

Parade:

All the locals were talking about this so with great curiosity I strolled into town to check it out. So well first impressions were that it was very Russian like – which was somewhat ironic given the nature of the celebration. Also there wasn’t as many people actually watching the parade as I expected (reasons for this became apparent later).

As a foreigner I managed to get right up to the front opposite the viewing stand.

So picture the scene a very very hot day and hundreds and hundreds of soldiers marching. We had loud booming pre – recorded music and hundreds of local people walking in front of the viewing stand. (This was why there were so few watching most of the town were walking in the parade).

But to be fair there were some diversions:

1) We had balloons in the national colours

2) What I thought were doves initially then fake birds as they didn’t seem to fly very well. But well when one literally fell from the sky close to me I realised they were horrible pigeons. The poor things must have been suffering heat exhaustion stuck in cages all morning.

3) Every so often there was the excitement of a float. For example a truck with a teacher, two desks, pupils and two cardboard computers

4)  Occasionally groups would stop in front of the viewing stand and sing a song in praise of the President

5) Numerous huge pictures of the President all in the same pose mind you

So yep so the theme was all about the President. It was one huge love fest about him and well frankly incredibly boring. So I sneaked off after 1 hour – the parade lasted 3 hours. From one college alone 1,000 students marched. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Concert:

That night there was a big concert in the local stadium with 25,000 people. So there was no actual system for getting in but as usual as a foreigner I was allowed up the front and managed to make it in.

I was meeting friends but had lost them. My friends found me and when I asked how they managed that – they told me they had asked the Police did they see a foreign girl!! I guess been the only foreigner at the concert was a good thing.

So again we had loud booming pre-recorded music and the whole thing was another fawning homage to the President. Another theme here folks – it’s all about the President here. Actually what struck me was when all the Government people took their seats was that they were all men and hugely overweight compared to locals. (read into that what you may)!!

But it was great fun – a really colourful spectacle of dance and music from the Sughd regions. Of course I couldn’t sit down and stood up to dance (love the music here) much to the amusement of the crowd around me and the numerous police in front of me. I couldn’t understand why no one was dancing. Eventually a few people towards the end started dancing. I’m afraid I have no pictures just videos and internet not good enough to upload one.

Lenin Statue:

So I had heard about this Lenin statue which was removed from a prime location before I arrived. It is the largest in Central Asia. So off I went Saturday to try and find it. Had to laugh folks – the poor fella is now located well in what I would call wasteland. Had to laugh a pretty miserable place for it – but guess Tajikistan is trying to remove the more obvious reminders of its Russian history. It is just unfortunate that the more subtle ones are still alive + kicking.

School/College time again:

Yep the kids are all back in school. So, on a daily basis Khujand look like its hosting a convention for waiters/waitresses. All the school girls wear black skirts with a white shirt and a massive white fluffy bow. The boys well from a distance it looks like there are wearing leather trousers but it’s a throwback to the early ‘80/s folk’s just shiny trousers with white shirt and tie.

Its gas the college kids look nothing like home. The guy’s wears black trousers and white shirt + tie. The girls all dress very formally, black skirt and white shirt…………yes another theme here they luv their black/white.

Labour has my vote.

The US sponsor an ‘American Corner’’ here in Khujand.  It is for the students to give them an understand of American culture via books dvd’s etc.

So………I emailed Eamonn Gilmore asking would the Irish government be interested in providing books. My point was that while Ireland has no direct relationship with this country, Tajikistan has very powerful allies – China, Russia and America all of whom we have national relationships with.

So fair play they agreed to donate 50 books. It’s a fantastic collection of books – popular, contemporary, poetry, history, and culture. I am so proud to think that in this little part of the world there will now exist an ‘Irish Corner’ and Tajik students will learn about Irish culture.

Tennis:

I am playing tennis here now on courts about a 15 min walk from the flat. It’s great really enjoying it – I haven’t played in so long and struggling with fitness. But have to laugh here have absolutely no sense of tennis ‘etiquette’ here. They stroll around on court, use their mobiles and have wonderful loud conversations.

Earlier today I actually had to say sssh to someone – she was wrecking my head. Then the guy I was playing with kept on saying ‘good’ whenever I hit the damn ball. So very politely asked him to stop!! The locals are like camels – playing on Sunday I drank 2.5 litres of water – the guy I was playing with didn’t touch a drop!!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: I copped this ages ago but forgot to mention but I appear to be the only person in Khujand who actually dries their underwear outside. Fortunately I am at the back so only a few of my neighbours are exposed to my high quality d/s underwear ha ha!!

PPS: Have a new translator – driving me nuts. Not sure how long he will last but am desperate so may just be stuck with him – bad BO and all!!

School/College is out:

Yep the kids are all back in school. So, on a daily basis Khujand look like its hosting a convention for waiters/waitresses. All the school girls wear black skirts with a white shirt and a massive white fluffy bow. The boys well from a distance it looks like there are wearing leather trousers but it’s a throwback to the early ‘80/s folk’s just shiny trousers with white shirt and tie.

Its gas the college kids look nothing like home. The guy’s wears black trousers and white shirt + tie. The girls all dress very formally, black skirt and white shirt…………yes another theme here they luv their black/white.

Labour has my vote.

The US sponsor an ‘American Corner’’ here in Khujand.  It is for the students to give them an understand of American culture via books dvd’s etc.

So………I emailed Eamonn Gilmore asking would the Irish government be interested in providing books. My point was that while Ireland has no direct relationship with this country, Tajikistan has very powerful allies – China, Russia and America all of whom we have national relationships with.

So fair play they agreed to donate 50 books. It’s a fantastic collection of books – popular, contemporary, poetry, history, and culture. I am so proud to think that in this little part of the world there will now exist an ‘Irish Corner’ and Tajik students will learn about Irish culture.

Tennis:

I am playing tennis here now on courts about a 15 min walk from the flat. It’s great really enjoying it – I haven’t played in so long and struggling with fitness. But have to laugh here have absolutely no sense of tennis ‘etiquette’ here. They stroll around on court, use their mobiles and have wonderful loud conversations.

Earlier today I actually had to say sssh to someone – she was wrecking my head. Then the guy I was playing with kept on saying ‘good’ whenever I hit the damn ball. So very politely asked him to stop!! The locals are like camels – playing on Sunday I drank 2.5 litres of water – the guy I was playing with didn’t touch a drop!!

Hope all is well.

As always from me to y’all good night!!!

Lainey xxx

PS: I copped this ages ago but forgot to mention but I appear to be the only person in Khujand who actually dries their underwear outside. Fortunately I am at the back so only a few of my neighbours are exposed to my high quality d/s underwear ha ha!!

PPS: Have a new translator – driving me nuts. Not sure how long he will last but am desperate so may just be stuck with him – bad BO and all!!